Tools Required:
- 10mm Socket (Ideally deep drive)
- 10mm Spanner (Alternative to socket – more difficult)
- Phillips screw driver
- Racket extensions can make it easier
- Ratchet to suit socket drive size
Step 1:
Disconnect negative terminal on batteries. (or positive if you fancy)
Step 2:
Locate the ECU via the drivers side footwell. It sits vertically on a bracket to the left of the footwell nearly ontop of the transmission tunnel.
Step 3:
We remove the lower dash section to gain better access to the ECU. This isnt required to remove the ECU but definately makes it easier. Only takes a couple of minutes to do.
If you aren’t doing this please skip this step.
- Remove single phillips drive screw from bottom left corner
- Remove two screws from bonnet release lever
- Remove two screws from fuel filler lid release lever
- Pull on bottom edge of trim towards the drivers seat and the trim will unclip/come away from the dash. The fuel filler lid release lever will need to drop away from the trim.
Step 4:
There are two black connectors that connect the ECU to the wiring harness. They are both have cam style locking which are released/locked by moving the arm.
The connectors can be a bit stiff to remove in which case you may want to give them a wiggle as you try to release/unlock them.
Pull the locking lever to unlock the connector and disconnect from the ECU.
Step 5:
There are three fasteners holding the ECU bracket to the vehicle and two grounds that need to be remove from the bracket.
Remove all fasteners as shown below.
Step 6:
Remove the four screws securing the ECU to the bracket.
Notes:
When reconnecting the ECU connector make sure that there are no foreign objects in the ECU side connector and the loom connector is clean and free of debris. Carefully seat the connector ensuring it is square to the ECU (so when screwed in it goes in straight). Tighten connector bolt until tight and connector is fully seated again ensuring connector is seated properly.